Mother Superior: It started out cloudy but not a drop of rain came down, so we were very thankful. We worked our way over to Josefov, the Jewish Town, right before 9h00. The streets were deserted except those going to Sabbath services and sanitary workers cleaning the streets. On our agenda were the Spanish Synagogue, The New Old Synagogue, St Agnes Convent, and a few other sights. Our early arrival allowed us to stroll around with Monkey Hat and Princess. The kids were wide awake and although they had enjoyed a full breakfast, they capitalized on every opportunity to stop at a bakery or pastry shop. Mansson’s provided us with pain au chocolat. While nibbling on the sweet treats, we saw a most amusing advertisement. A cartoon-like black teddy bear with a bandolier around his chest and an AK-47 in his hands. The propaganda was for the Museum of Communism. Eerie and amusing at the same time. It was unexpected in what can best be described as a boheme bourgeoisie district of haute designers. We were early birds and as a result, ended up at a café waiting for the Convent to open. Once inside the convent, we spoke to Princess about the vow of silence, but alas, she was not interested. The convent was founded by King Wenceslas and his sister Agnes, in 1233. It currently houses the National Gallery’s Collection on Bohemian Gothic Art. The highlights are nine paintings depicting the life of Jesus. Captain Grumpy, for fun, read them out of order and Monkey Hat got to re-organize, using his CCD knowledge. The second piece of the collection that caught my eye was two wooden statues of the Madonna pregnant. The statues were from the 1430’s. I’ve only seen one other work of art depicting the Virgin Mary pregnant and it is a painting in Venice. The final piece worth mentioning was a statue of Jesus tortured with his crown of thorns and real hair from a horse’s tail – a haunting image. By the time we were done with the salvation of our souls, it was time to indulge our bodies. We scouted out a wonderful little restaurant at the Hastal Hotel in Old Town. We enjoyed classic Czech dishes, like pork loin, pork shoulder, and smoked sausages served with potato and bread dumplings. The three little pigs were exceptionally tasty, but not as tasty as our next stop – Café Gourmand – for desserts. True decadence was achieved at this piece of heaven on earth. Its pastries are perfect. Little magical combinations of butter, sugar, flour, chocolate, strawberries, and pears that are perfectly blended to delight the palate. I would have sat down at one of its tiled tables, nestled away in a corner reading Hemingway or Kafka, but our fearless leader had other plans for us. Step by step, we explored Old Town Square albeit stopping at numerous shops along the way. For example, Princess found a leprechaun and insisted on a photo with the little guy. By a handmade paper shop, we found a plaque in honor of the first woman Nobel Prize Winner, Bertha Von Suttner. Then there was the Chocolate Museum with its cocoa fairy which entertained the children. The best though, was the sign we spotted: Talking is my Primary Function. Captain Grumpy hoisted Princess and we snapped a few shots with her next to this sign.
Captain Grumpy: There we were, cold, hungry and tired. Nine days into our travels in the old world. Supplies were low, morale was lower…that is until we came across Café Gourmand. Then life got a little better…Mother Superior was happy and as a result, so were we. We had spent the morning strolling around Jewish Town. It was early on the Sabbath, so not much was happening. We ended up in the St Agnes Convent. It was a trial run for Princess. Unfortunately, she has not shown any proclivity for silence, and the nuns would not have her. The most interesting work of art in the collection residing in this former convent was by Master Theodoric. He painted in three-dimensions, often using the frames of the paintings as extra canvas and also using textures. We walked from here back to the hotel through old town, new town, and middle-aged town (if it existed). Along the way we saw a few of the sights: Old Town Square, Wenceslas Square, Powder Gate, the house of the Black Madonna, the chocolate museum, the torture museum (side by side no less), and some of the several theaters in the city. The kids have been amazing on this trip, as has Mother Superior – she of the three inch heels. Which, by the way, have worn out on this trip, and are due for a service at the cobbler upon returning. Which we can only get to if the floods have subsided in Denville. Back in Prague, we planned our return to Budapest and had an early dinner before retiring.
Monkey Hat: Today, I woke up first and then Dad woke up. He used his computer. Mom woke up next, she also used the computer, and finally I used it. I had breakfast and we left. We walked in a few minutes to the place we went to, called the Convent of St. Agnes. When we were done, we went to eat at the hotel. Yum! We finished. We walked nowhere for an hour. We didn’t see anything except Princess go to hold a sword. At last, we went back to the hotel, played, had dinner, and went to bed. We ate chicken, pizza and pasta. While we waited, I played with Legos. That day we went to three pastry shops.
Princess: We woke up today. I got dressed with help from Mommy. Then we ate breakfast. Breakfast was yogurt and apple juice. Then went out the hotel and walked. Then I saw the guy with the sword. Dad said, I loved swords. The guy let me hold the sword.
Jewish Town...my kind of place. :-)
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